The melodic sounds have transformed and progressed rapidly, starting in the 1960s and 70s when American GI’s were stationed in several military bases around Isaan bringing with them foreign tunes of rock, soul, and psychedelic sounds. “I’m happy when I see Thai cooks getting back to their roots and bringing pride in their own cuisine and it doesn’t matter which way you do it because once you get back to your roots, it automatically links you to local ingredients.”Ĭourtesy of Paradise Bangkok Molam International Band
“We all have our own interpretation of what’s authentic,” he explains. The fruits of his labor aren’t just for the local community but also for his fine-casual restaurant where he presents Isaan cuisine in a more contemporary way without requiring himself to hew entirely to authenticity. “We want to make very interesting scenes in our town,” he explains. He is also turning to the younger generation of artists to showcase Isaan culture, such as unique ceramics by Noir Row Art Space. His strong connections with the community extend throughout the province where he is known on a first name basis everywhere he turns.
They supply Num with grass-fed beef that has been raised in the mountains for nearly four years–a relationship that exemplifies his desire to put small-scale farmers at the forefront. “Currently we work with a farm in Khon Kaen called Wor Tha Wee Farm, which operates on a bio-dynamic system,” he tells me. Courtesy of Samuay & Sons Meet another Pla Raa master ‘mae ting’ Fish sour soup with sweet vegetable and ant eggs. There is a predominant Lao influence in Isaan cuisine due to its location and though the food here is known to be very hot and intense in taste, you will also encounter a lot of fermentation such as in the holy grail of Isaan food, pla ra, as well as the raw proteins and anything goes ingredients from wild herbs to creatures like frogs and seasonal red-ant eggs all meant to be eaten with heaps of sticky rice by hand. I love getting the chance to meet the people he is so proud to work with. Preservation, knowledge and community relationships are the fundamentals of Num’s ethics and I realize this is why I have gravitated so much to his work. Pak wan, a favorite wild leaf in Thai cuisine, grows abundantly in Isaan so we grab as much as we can throughout the trek that will later be used in a soup and stir-fry. Vibrant pink Torch Ginger flowers peek out through the forestry where Num cuts a few to use in fresh salads.
His love of nature radiates from him as we make our way through the jagged trail, but it’s his knowledge of the ingredients we find along the way that astounds me. So, happily, Num agrees to take me on one of his foraging trips and, before I know it, I’m in his 4×4 on the way to the mountains of Sakhon Nakhon.Ĭhef Num with dried aged beef. I’d long been a fan of his and made it to many of his pop-ups in Bangkok, which made me want to learn more about the agricultural hub from which he hails.
He is on the 50 Best Discovery list, and is a strong contender for a star when Michelin expands throughout Thailand later this year. Num is owner and head chef of Udon Thani’s Samuay and Sons restaurant, which has garnered acclaim from diners and chefs around the world who travel to this corner of northeastern Thailand for not only his “New Isaan” style of dining, but also for his tireless advocacy of the region’s distinctive culture and ingredients. “I treasure it because it’s a personal connection with the food I eat and what I want to share with others.” “I’VE BEEN COMING TO to this forest for years, even spent nights after long, treacherous hikes,” chef Weerawat ‘Num’ Triyasenawat tells me while we are deep in the woods in northeast Thailand. This is our definitive travel guide for the Isaan region: home to some of Thailand’s best historic sites, national parks and, as every foodie in-the-know knows, cuisine. But perhaps you’ve heard the hypnotic rhythms of Morlam music or tasted its fiery, fermented food. YOU’D BE FORGIVEN if you’ve never heard of a little slice of northeastern Thailand called Udon Thani.
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